Hi I’m new around here and inherited some beautiful silver pieces from my mother in law. She was an interior designer and shopped at antique shops all around the country. Most pieces are signed and stamped but this concho belt isn’t. Can anyone help me find any information about this belt. It has a very nice patina and it is heavy; there are no marks or artist stamp.
Welcome. Your concho belt is a beauty. This belt, likely Navajo made, would be considered Third Phase due to its butterfly concho spacers and the use of turquoise dating anywhere from 1930s to 1960s +/-. The buckle is unusual in its construction with what appears to be added on heavy half-round wire similar in form to a naja.
Here is a very similar belt on a Ralph Lauren model likely made by the same hand.
Welcome to the forum @tourmaline32. The concho belt you’ve inherited is stunning. Would you be able to share photos of the back of the buckle and perhaps one of the conchos? If you would also be able to measure the belt’s components, that would be great information to have, as well.
I agree with @TAH that what you have would be considered a likely Navajo made Third Phase concho belt, due to its components and apparent construction. Having these close up photos of your belt is a real blessing, as the photos from the runway are relatively blurry when zoomed in on. The stampwork on your belt is beautifully done, especially on the “rope border” portion of the conchos; the area separating the unworked silver from the holes along the perimeter. I also am enamored with the stamps embellishing the scalloped edge of the conchos.
The concho belt that is being donned by the model in Ralph Lauren’s 2004 Fall runway has been the subject of discussion here previously. Some of us here are fanatics when it comes to concho belts and belt buckles, and of the thousands that we’ve looked at, studied, and researched, no one had come across anything similar to the one being worn on the Ralph Lauren runway, until now!
TAH Amazing, I couldn’t find any similar images. It’s good to have a frame of reference. Thank you. I style it in a similar manner with black clothes to show it off.
And you do a lovely job of it, it looks amazing! Your mother in law had incredible taste, and this unique concho belt is a real treasure. Thank you again so much for sharing.
The conchos are approximately 4.5 inches wide and 3.75 tall; the butterflies are 3.25 tall and 1 inch at the widest point and the center circle. The buckle is 4x3 inches. This belt is heavy at 16 pounds.
Thank you for adding the additional photos and measurements. The conchos look incredibly thick. I hate to trouble you, but would you be willing to share yet another photo? I’m particularly interested in seeing a straight on, side shot of the buckle where the curved arms are located.
Zooming in quite a bit, there appears to be a seam where I’ve pointed the red arrow in your photo below. I’m most curious to see if that is indeed the case.
Thank you for these extra photos, I feel they’re telling. Echoing @TAH, I too am anxious to see what @mmrogers thinks about your belt’s construction. Personally, I believe I see a main backplate with the half round, curved arms set separatley; as @TAH originally pointed out and as he and I believed the buckle on the Ralph Lauren model’s belt to have been constructed.
Happy to take a look, @Ravenscry. @tourmaline32, Can we take another look at the back of the buckle?I’d like to see if we’re looking at a single backplate or whether these curved stations along with individual backplates for each are fitted and joined to the central part of the buckle.
Scratch that. Looking closely at the photos again, it’s all on one backplate. Will continue in the next post with impressions.
First, with the similarity of the two belts, it looks to me as if this was drawn out or drafted first and then made according to the design drawing. Everything about this belt is meticulously planned and executed. No doubt the silversmith created brass or copper templates for this design so multiple examples could be fashioned. I’m guessing there are others out there (probably just a handful) made from the same design by the same hand.
The stones look like millimeter cut Persian, perfectly matched, so I’m thinking a trading company coordinated the production of these pieces, perhaps as a commission for a fashion house or higher end retailer. The level of planning effort and professionalism that went into this is really impressive.
The stamps are an older style, maybe 30s, 40s, or even 50s. Really a wonderful and very special belt!
Thank you for your input, Mike. Your thoughts shed light on avenues I wouldn’t have even considered, and it all makes sense. The craftsmanship present in this belt really is something else.
You’ve got yourself a beautiful, truly special piece, @tourmaline32!
You bet, Tom. I do want to comment on this particular stamp. It’s a real piece of art all on its own, comprising three different depths created by adding additional stamps at 2 varying depths to the original shape. The first being the curved stamp in the middle at a shallower depth, and then the five tiny round stamps at a deeper depth. This stamp alone took two other stamps to create, and involved hours of work to shape and perfect.
@mmrogers thanks. Wow, I wouldn’t have guessed any of this. The amount of precision and work that went into this belt is quite astounding. I will cherish this art piece forever.