First trip to the Grand Canyon and Flag

I totally understand holding off on hiking plans, but you might surprise yourself :grin: Wupatki and Sunset don’t really require hiking; we’ve been to both many times, and enjoy them so much that we’re still going to go back this summer (one entry fee covers both).

If you don’t feel like hiking on the Rim, make sure to at least take the West Rim shuttle out to the Mary Colter designed Hermit’s Rest which is a lovely little building, and usually has big ol’ Ravens hopping around on the rocks. If you stop at some of the farthest west viewpoints you’ll have expansive views with less people. And most definitely get off at the Trailview Overlook (first one) which gives you the incredible view of the Bright Angel switchbacks. Plus anywhere on the rim keep your eyes open for Condors.

I forgot, if you have time on the way to Cameron from the East Rim entrance you can stop at the Little Colorado Overlook which is crazy impressive too. I believe it is a Navajo Nation Park.

So cool that you’re staying at the Weatherford! We have never stayed there, but I’ve always been curious about it. And I don’t know if you knew, but this is the centennial of Rt 66, so kind of a fun year to be in Flag!

One question, how far out did you have to reserve your rafting trip? And I will be interested in hearing how scary it is. We’ve only whitewater rafted once in West Virginia.

3 Likes

We’re not actually staying at the Weatherford; I had just noted it and its bars and restaurants when I was doing some research. It looks very nice though. We’re staying at the hotel that the rafting trip departs from bc it’s just easier.

We booked this probably about 16 months in advance? Definitely over a year. Some of the trips fill up very far in advance. Some won’t fill and you can book closer, but if you want a specific time or trip you need to plan very far out

Thanks for all the tips about the rim! I knew there would be no better person to ask.

2 Likes

Oh okay, I was confused. I wasn’t going to say, but I had heard that the rooms can be noisy due to the bar below.

You’re very welcome, it gives me joy to reminisce! Sorry if I rambled too much. We are heading west this summer, spending some time with our friends in Phoenix, and then doing some things in NM, but I am managing to slip in a quick trip just to the East Rim side of GC. Now you’ve made me extra glad, and if I see any rafts below when we’re at Lipan Point I’ll imagine how much fun you had rafting :grin:

3 Likes

And thanks, I was thinking you had to reserve way out. I think that’s another reason why I never even really considered it since my husband’s job at GM doesn’t allow him to plan vacations more than a year out. But he does retire this year…

3 Likes

I just received my latest issue of Arizona Highways in the mail, and I thought you might appreciate this article. I haven’t completely read it yet, but I really enjoy this guy’s writing.

2 Likes

Update for anyone that was waiting to hear how my Grand Canyon trip turned out (looking at you, @Ziacat :rofl: ). It was fantastic. Epic. I highly recommend a rafting trip for anyone that loves the Grand Canyon, National Parks, or the southwest, as most of us here do. My only disappointment was that I wasn’t able to raft the entire canyon. I’m hopeful that I’ll be able to finish it another time.

We flew to Flagstaff which was a smaller airport than I realized but really pleasant to get in and out of. We spent the next day in Flagstaff and went to the Museum of Northern Arizona which I hadn’t been to before and definitely enjoyed. I thought they did a really nice job with the Native galleries and letting the tribes tell their own stories. That night we had an orientation for the rafting trip at our hotel, and the next morning we met in the lobby bright and early for the bus ride to Lee’s Ferry. Luckily, as per Ziacat’s recommendation, the bus made a stop after Navajo bridge and we were able to walk back over it. About 2 seconds after I stepped on the bridge we saw a California Condor soar by below. At that point I didn’t realize how rare or special of a sighting that was but could kind of tell that people around were making a big deal of it. We didn’t see any more the rest of the trip and I now know they were brought back from the brink of extinction by a controversial captive breeding program. And we did see some rafts float by, as Zia also said, and it was wild to then look back at the bridge a few hours later from below in a raft having switched spots.

Rafting was amazing. We were on the river 5 days and covered 89 miles from Lee’s Ferry to Phantom Ranch. The rapids were not constant, rather there were long stretches of placid water broken up by intermittent rapids, often where side canyons come in. The rapids seemed a little different to me than rapids on east coast rivers I’ve done before and the Rio Grande—more like big waves and less churning around visible rocks? They were fun though. @Bmpdvm you wanted to know which ones I liked best and I don’t even remember the names of most of them. But two that made an impression were Hahn’s, which I think is the biggest one on the half of the river we covered, and the Roaring Twenties, where we almost flipped in the paddle boat (luckily we never flipped or went for any unplanned swims). Our trip consisted of 4 oar rafts, one all paddle boat, and one hard sided dory.

My favorite part was exploring the canyon itself, as well as the side canyons. One highlight for me was the Little Colorado River, which is a shocking aqua blue due to calcium carbonate dissolved in the water and joins the Colorado from its own impressive deep walled side canyon. The Hopi call this sacred place Sipapu, their place of emergence into this world.

Another favorite place was Redwall Cavern, a huge open cave in the side of the canyon. My pictures can’t even capture the scale of it.

The hike out on Bright Angel trail was long and very uphill, but not terrible. I know what you mean about the switchbacks though, Zia. Fun to see the perspective change as you rise out of the canyon and finally get that classic view that you expect to see from the rim. When we got to the rim the first thing I did was use a flushing toilet, and the second thing was seek out food. The snack bar was closed! Which foiled my ability to eat a bucket of ice cream as Zia recommended. But we got a table at the tavern in Bright Angel Lodge for lunch and I got a dessert that included ice cream, so it all worked out.

We spent two nights at El Tovar and the next day on the rim hitting many of the overlooks, and did some walking on the rim trail, also as recommended by Zia. My original plan had been to go to Desert Watchtower that day, but we didn’t have a car and I hadn’t appreciated just how far it is and the fact that the shuttles don’t run there. Of course the views from the rim were incredible, but I also felt a little down that day, missing the rest of our crew and wondering what adventures we were missing out on in the canyon. (The trip does the whole canyon; some guests hike out halfway through and are replaced by hikers in for the second half). It also was a bit of a shock to the system to be among the crowds on the rim after the isolation of the canyon.

The next day we got a shuttle back to Flag which took us to the airport where we rented a car for the last day and a half. The next day with the car we really crammed a lot in. We drove to Desert Watchtower in the morning and were among the first groups to get in. On the way back we first made a quick stop at the Little Colorado River Overlook, then went to the Cameron Trading post. The overlook we stopped at was free and before the Navajo Nation Park that you have to pay like $8 to get into; I had forgotten about that recommendation and didn’t know the park was coming up. Not sure if it would have been a better view or not. Cameron was fun and I saw your belt @TAH, but shockingly I didn’t buy anything there besides a Navajo taco. I made it through the whole trip without buying anything jewelry; nothing really spoke to me at Cameron or at Hopi House or MNA. I only bought one piece of Native art on the trip; this little angel Christmas ornament from the gift shop at Maswik Lodge.

Once we were back in Flag we went to Walnut Canyon which was really cool. Unfortunately we never made it to Wupatki and Sunset Crater—next time. And then that night we went to Lowell Observatory and were able to look through telescopes at planets, stars and moons in the night sky. The sky and stars were amazing at the rim as you guys said and also in Flag which is a dark sky certified city, but best of all in the canyon.

Thanks to everyone here for the recommendations, and if you ever get a chance or are thinking about a GC rafting trip, you should do it!

12 Likes

What a wonderful vacation - most definitely the trip of a lifetime! I still want to raft it someday. My dream had been so focused on hiking down, camping, and back out that rafting went on the back burner. Then it just got too hard to schedule, but you helped me live it a bit vicariously through yours :grin: I feel like I am familiar with the places in the canyon you mentioned such as Redwall Cavern and the meeting of the Little Colorado and Colorado rivers, because I have read so much about them (and seen them pictured many times in AZ Highways and other books); sometimes I see them in my dreams. Thank you for your beautiful pictures. I love the boats against the red rock walls - too perfect! If you are like me you will be forever addicted to the Grand Canyon. The Grand Canyon and the Great Lakes are my two favorite places, and I love it that they have such simple but perfect names. The Grand Canyon couldn’t be called anything other than just…Grand.

And I had a feeling you’d be able to do some more hiking :grin: I can imagine though the shock of the crowd after the isolation at the bottom; I remember that also. I read your post to my hubby, and when I got to the part about no ice cream bucket, he said, “oh, that’s just sad.” But I bet two nights at the El Tovar helped make up for that.

Impressive to come home minus any new jewelry, but I haven’t recently found anything at Hopi House either, although I have been lucky at Cameron. I’m glad you at least got the Navajo taco. Without that you would most surely have to go back!

I’m really glad you got to go to Walnut Canyon National Monument. We went back to visit it last spring, and it is such a lovely little canyon with all the cliff dwellings tucked down in. Would you believe we have never visited the museum in Flag? Not sure why, other than we are always so focused on outdoorsy stuff. We’re going to stay one night in Flag next month, and then run up to the east side of the Grand Canyon before heading on to New Mexico. Now you’ve made me even more excited to go back!

Did you find any restaurants you loved in Flag? Maybe we should try something new. Thank you so much for sharing your trip with us!!

5 Likes

I think you would enjoy this book which is based on John Wesley Powell’s trip through the canyon. I also read JWP’s own book about his trip, which was good, but I found this one to be even better.

Interesting what you said about the rapids. I believe the nastiest ones are in the second half, but I have heard about Hance rapid, and I think that’s one you can see from one of the East Rim viewpoints.

6 Likes

WOW OO! What an incredible adventure!!! I was anticipating your recollection of this trip, and you no doubt delivered a most enjoyable memoir.

Thank you for taking the time to share all of the details, your thoughts, surprises, and stunning photographs. :heart_eyes: As soon as I saw your post, I was wishful of a looonnnggg one, and at the end, I found myself scrolling for more. :laughing::+1:

I’ve listened to my dear younger sister tell me of the night sky that stretches from horizon to horizon in Africa, and I’ve witnessed some of Father Sky’s beauty in Alaska, but I can only imagine what you were able to feast your eyes on in the Canyon, and Flagstaff, for that matter. A subject I’ve been enthralled with from a very young age is rock art. Astrophotographers like Derek Culver, through their long exposure masterpieces, have provided me with the marriage of two of my favorite subjects: the night sky and petroglyphs…

Reading and hearing about voyages undertaken by you, @Ziacat, @TAH, and many of our other members is so enthralling. It’s a privilege to be given access to these first hand accounts and memories; it’s all so very priceless. :slightly_smiling_face:

Thank you, again, for sharing all that you did in a most engaging way. I’ve read your post three times, and each time it’s just as awe-inspiring as the first. :+1:

9 Likes

@OrbitOrange

I’m so glad you had a great time! I’ve never been inside the canyon, but I’ve been to the rim three times in recent years. It really is a place that everyone should see in their lifetime.

5 Likes

Very happy to hear you had a safe and enjoyable GCNP experience, @OrbitOrange! Your beautiful photographs make me want to return. And how special it was for you to see a condor. An amazing trip, indeed! :+1:

3 Likes

Thank you for your enthusiasm for my trip and all of your advice! It really was a trip of a lifetime and as the biggest fan of the GC I know (except maybe for some of the guides I met on this trip), I think you should definitely try to raft it. It is hard to schedule though, between how far in advance you have to do it and how long you are on the river for–I get it. That held me up for a long time as well. Of course your hiking in and out was also an epic trip I’m sure.

Haha I appreciate your husband’s sympathy. It was kind of sad, but tell him I was ok. They were having all kinds of issues at the rim with not being able to accept credit cards at restaurants and gift shops and the snack bar being closed. Let’s just say their technology is charmingly not up to date.

Walnut Canyon was really cute and a kind of low key under the radar cliff dwelling site which was nice. I love cliff dwellings, and have been to several, but Walnut Canyon had a bit of a different feel to it, I think because of the more temperate climate in Flagstaff and the natural overhangs in the rock. Definitely cool to see.

My favorite was probably Sosoba noodles, a small but delicious ramen shop. It looks like there’s a location in Phoenix as well. We also went to a couple breweries, because Flagstaff very much seems like a brewery town. We went to Lumberyard Brewing the first night mostly because we needed to watch a game and it seemed like it had a lot of TVs :rofl: , but it was good. I ended up really liking their Railhead Red ale and getting some to take into the canyon. After we returned to Flag we went to Dark Sky brewing which had a really awesome beer garden and also good food and beer.

5 Likes

Thank you for taking the time to read my indulgently long post 3(!) times and for your interest and enthusiasm. I can’t wait to hear if you’ve taken your trip to AZ yet, where you went and how you liked it.

Wow, thanks for sharing those incredible photos! I’m also fascinated by rock art, and I love night sky photography, so those pictures are pretty much my Venn diagram of perfection. We did see a few petroglyphs in the canyon, but they were not the most numerous or intricate that I’ve seen.

And there are a few pictographs visible from Bright Angel Trail. They are very near the top, so easy for the casual hiker to see.

The night sky in the canyon was truly incredible. One night I was having trouble sleeping, and saw a bright beam, like a headlight, shining into my tent from above. I put on my glassed and leaned out the tent to check what it was (a helicopter searchlight? A tractor beam?) and it turned out it was just the moon. You could see the milky way with your bare eyes as well. I’d never seen anything like it.

6 Likes

[[quote=“OrbitOrange, post:26, topic:17517”]
I highly recommend a rafting trip for anyone that loves the Grand Canyon, National Parks, or the southwest, as most of us here do!
[/quote]

Ditto, ditto…Agree completely OO. I’ve been wondering when you’d share your fabulous trip! Love the photos, I know you have many more! The last few times I’ve been to the GC I’ve felt the same way about being in the canyon as opposed to on the rim. Both areas and views are spectacular, but experiencing the canyon and the power of the river is unparalleled. I certainly remember Hance rapids on our trip! But Crystal was also raging and even though we scouted it we hit a hole and were spit out backwards (it was a paddle boat, so we blamed our guide​:grimacing:). Interesting how the river changes season to season. I don’t recall the Roaring 20’s, but after an intense monsoon season and flash floods, rafts can come around a corner and discover a new rapid that wasn’t there last year.
Love your picture of the aqua blue little Colorado mixing with the brownish Colorado. It was that way when I went too…just gorgeous. I’m sure you stopped at Vaseys paradise, that lush fresh water spring bursting from the Redwall limestone. I’m pretty sure it’s in the first half of the float. I remember a couple other spectacular waterfalls further down the canyon.
Your pictures of Redwall cavern looks even bigger than I remember. Immense is a good descriptor​:grin:. I know they have had some high flows since I went, so likely a bit more erosion in the cavern (?). And, the flows were pretty high when we went so the river was higher in the cavern.
Speaking of high water flows, I know I mentioned this book to you earlier, but when we were traveling my husband read “The Emerald Mile”. I read it so long ago, but he agreed it is an excellent book for anyone interesting in rafting or the Grand Canyon in general- you’ll love it!


And glad you made Walnut Canyon. It is different than many cliff dwellings, but such a beautiful area. it’s a favorite of mine.
Thanks for the amazing photos @Ravenscry! The spectacular night sky along with petroglyphs- WOW!

5 Likes

I LOVE learning about GC rafting trips secondhand, cause it’s probably not going to happen for me - schedule and $. Sigh. But it so fun to hear about both of your adventures!! And I agree it is completely different at the bottom, but I don’t want anyone that can’t get down there to think that it is necessary to hike down or raft to appreciate it at it’s best. The GC is amazing no matter how someone experiences it.

We were able to do the smooth water raft 1/2 day trip from Lake Powell Dam to Lee’s Ferry which was really nice, and I would like to do that again.

@OrbitOrange, maybe we will check out one of those brewpubs; I love a good IPA! Last time there we ate at a pub right on Rt 66 downtown. It was really good, but they had a local open mic poetry slam night. It was so bad it was funny. My poor husband was not enjoying it :laughing:

And we are very familiar with the moon coming out at night at GC. Last time at the North Rim we were excited to go out and see the stars, but the moon was so bright the stars were next to impossible to see. But it was kind of cool, because the side canyon our cabin was on was totally lit up. It did look like a search light (or tractor beam :laughing:).

@Ravenscry - love those pics!

3 Likes

@OrbitOrange, I’ve been trying to catch up on my Arizona Highways reading (I’m so far behind), and I thought you would appreciate the photo that covers the back of the April issue. Maybe there were people on the bridge looking down at your raft as you went underneath!

Sorry for the bit of glare on the right. I was having trouble finding good lighting.

3 Likes

@Ziacat what a cool picture! Thanks for sharing. One of the motor rafts, taken from Navajo Bridge, I presume? I’m sure there likely were people looking down at us when we rafted by; the bridge was very crowded when we stopped there a few hours earlier. The North Rim at night sounds beautiful. From the reading I’ve done about it, I think I may appreciate the North Rim more than the South Rim and Grand Canyon Village. I’m so sad about the fire though and the lodge burning down; it sounds like it will take them many years to rebuild it which makes it very hard for someone like me who has to travel far to get there to visit.

@Bmpdvm OK your comment and a general curiosity for the rapids and landmarks we saw in the first half of the canyon made me go back and look it up. There is in fact not a rapid called The Roaring Twenties. Rather, The Roaring Twenties is a term to encompass miles 20 through 30 in the Grand Canyon, a section which contains a lot of rapids. So the rapids that my boat almost flipped in was in that section, but I don’t remember the exact name. If I had to guess I would say it was Georgie’s Rapid. And you and Zia are right, the other rapid I was referring to was Hance, not Hahn’s. Clearly I didn’t do my homework on the rapids. :rofl:

5 Likes

Yes, that is from the Navajo Bridge. I believe I have some pictures that are similar, although not Arizona Highways worthy :laughing:

I love both the North and South Rims, but the North has been my favorite. I don’t know if I can go back for a while though, because it would be too heartbreaking. I believe it is open, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they work hard to get that Lodge up as soon as possible. But to make it as special as it was will take some time. This is actually the second time it has burned to the ground, so they’ve been through this before. I’ll eventually ask my nephew who is a National Park Superintendent in CO if he has heard anything about it.

Even though I somewhat prefer the North Rim (we have gone there 4 times, both stayed in the cabins and camped), I love the South Rim, but mostly now avoid it in the dead of summer. This year we’re just going to go to the East Entrance and do a few of the overlooks. We went in spring a couple years ago, and it was perfect. There were a lot of people, but you could get away from them quickly. My next goal is to get there in the winter. The pictures of the canyon with snow are absolutely gorgeous.

4 Likes

Yes, 10 miles of contiguous rapids, in my opinion, is more fun than a short more intense rapid. Wish I could remember what that section was called when we went. I’m remembering one rapid called “Upset”…it had a huge wave and hole we barely avoided. Maybe that’s where you almost flipped :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:Anyway, as previously stated the river changes season after season.
Like Zia, I’m a real fan of the North Rim. We have been there several times but I feel especially fortionate to have been there shortly before the fire. The destruction just breaks my heart.
One thing on my bucket list is to drive out to Toroweep on the N rim. It’s about 50 miles on an iffy dirt road, then you can hike along the rim and look down on Lava rapids. I’ve always wanted to travel with another vehicle. We have 4WD, but evidently it’s tough on tires! The views from Toroweep are more than spectacular, straight down to the river. And it is not developed so no barriers, etc…you need to be careful not to fall off​:joy:


Not my photos, but isnt it glorious!
I can go on for ever about the GC, and the Southwest in general…it soothes my soul!

5 Likes

Reading about the travels and adventures of you ladies is fascinating! :+1:

This goal of yours reminds me of something I recently read and dreamt about multiple times.

In the fantastic book I just finished, Traders to the Navajos, Lousia tells of Richard Wetherill and his brother-in-law, Charlie Mason, tracking stray cattle on a snowy December day in 1888 when they discovered Cliff Palace in Cliff Canyon (Mesa Verde). The manner in which the dwelling was described, along with the snowfall, left me contemplating just how beautiful and awe-inspiring that moment must have been for them. I can imagine witnessing a very similar beauty of the Grand Canyon in winter. :+1:

6 Likes