This Navajo buckle has some unique features. On the back, the post is twisted silver and the wide loop is copper, which can be seen from the front photos. Buckle is 3 1/8" x 2 3/4" and weighs a hefty 137 grams, which can be seen in its thickness and depth. Circa 1940s-1950s.
My questions are: What type of turquoise and is this a tufa cast or sandstone cast piece? The rough texture on the back makes me think tufa.
The bottom photo shows the buckle next to my Zuni watchband and hat pin, both from the 40s and 50s and both inlaid with Blue Gem turquoise. It appears the buckle stone is identical in color and pattern to Blue Gem, with its fading colors of blue and light green. Even the matrix on both is a dark brown. If it isn’t Blue Gem, then it must have come from the mine next door.
Very nice buckle! I really like the knife wing! The buckle is sand-cast, not Tufa. I have included the photo of the back of a tufa cast buckle so you can see the difference. As far as age and type of Turquoise I will leave to others. Age is difficult without hallmarks or distinctive characteristics. I do note one thing that is unusual; the back of the stone setting is open. Very odd. Nice collection.
hi here is mine it is very similar to yours. if I can give my opinion there it is. I do not think that the fact that it is signed is not a guarantee of seniority. Many jewelers of the 60’s and 70’s made casts from older designs from the 30’s to 50’s and made them believe they were genuine. according to my research a TUFA sculpture actually only allows 5 to 10 castings maximum and you will agree with me certain buckle or naja pattern. So I assume that the castings are always or almost contentious, I think my buckle from the late 60’s or early 70’s, even though turquoise is natural.
Good day
Doesn’t look like Bluegem. It looks like natural Persian. There was quite a bit circulating in the early to mid 70’s. The supply completely dried up when the Shah was overthrown in 1979.
Thanks. It probably isn’t Blue Gem, but I’m not sure it’s Persian either. Looking at Google Images of Persian, it doesn’t look like a very good match. Besides it was purchased from a very reputable dealer who says the buckle is most likely from the 1950s. After searching the entire internet ( ), the closest match I could find in design is this ketoh from the Arizona State Museum, which is circa 1950.
How about Battle Mountain turquoise? The cabochon pictured below is from Durango Silver. It is the closest match I’ve seen. I think Battle Mountain and Blue Gem are basically from the same area. If the buckle is indeed from the 50s, the time frame would be right. Hard to say for sure.
I used to sell Persian that looked like that. Quite a bit of it, There were/are a couple of major mines in Iran. One produced a purer looking blue turquoise, and the other was lighter blue/ blue green/ to green with matrix like the stone in your sand cast buckle.
Persian is typically cut symmetrically with the high even dome this stone has. If it is Persian the stone may have been cut in Iran, or in Idar Oberstein Germany. US cutters just don’t cut stones this way. Easy way to look more closely would be to carefully remove the stone from setting. US cut stones will typically have a Devcon backing. Persian never had this type of backing. The cabs are typically all turquoise, no filler or backing.
I am stumped. Agree though that the high domed cab is more characteristic of Persian. As Persia was the original source for no matrix “Tiffany” blue it makes sense that the colors could be much closer to baby blue than compared to the darker blue and dark brown matrix most people think of when they think of Persian. Thanks for the info mmrogers!
As we all know, some turquoise can look like it came from several different mines and you never really know unless it has been properly documented. Case in point, here are three stones that are nearly identical in color, pattern, and matrix to the stone in my buckle, but they are all from different mines according to their descriptions.
I’m not saying my stone came from any of these mines, but the similarities are interesting. As for the buckle’s age, of course anything can be made to look old, but considering the expertise and reputation of the gallery it came from, I believe it is a 1950s piece, but they could be wrong too.
Adding a little more content to this thread. This ketoh was owned by a very knowledgeable collector and sold through Medicine Man Gallery in July 2020. A nearly exact design match to my buckle, but I’m still estimating my buckle to be 1950s. Interesting how some of these designs go way back.
“Navajo Silver Sandcast Ketoh with Original Leather c. 1920s. 224.5 grams, 3.625” x 2.875" face. The four holes at each end are original, and are used to lace a strap through. Ex H. Claiborne Lockett (1908-1984) collection. Purchased directly from the family. This is the first time this has been on the market. Clay Lockett was a former member of the Board of Trustees of the Museum of Northern Arizona from 1959-1971, purchasing agent for the Museum Shop from the time it opened in 1965, regular judge for Museum shows, appraiser of acquisitions, and one of MNA’s most generous donors, having given two major collections of Indian paintings, kachina dolls, rugs, jewelry, and pottery."
Thank you for posting that! It was a fantastic example of Tufa casting! I just got my first box of tufa to work with it was just what I needed! Thanks!
~Koliopee
Recently, I exchanged emails with Mark Sublette (Medicine Man Gallery) and Jackson Clark (Toh-Atin Gallery) regarding this sandcast buckle. After sending them many photos, they both dated the buckle to the 1940s-1950. Mark and Jackson could not identify the stone, but both said they didn’t think it was Persian, even after discussing the higher dome and lack of backing. So, the mystery continues on the stone.
Here are a few photos of the unusual twisted, solid silver post and the belt loop that appears to be silver on the outside, but is copper on the inside. Note the distinct line on the edge of the loop. Has anyone ever seen anything like this silver/copper loop?
I can’t imagine that stone being anything else but Persian. Sterling silver is a soft metal and you don’t use that sterling for the hook, so I imagine that is another metal. Interesting that the buckle uses a copper strip like you see on a concho belt use. Beautiful piece.
Thanks @Jason. I was a little disappointed when they said the stone wasn’t Persian, so I’m glad to hear your thoughts. Interesting to know hooks are typically not sterling. I just think the twist is cool. So, what’s up with the belt loop? Is it solid copper that has turned a silvery color on the outside? That perfect line down the edge is why I’m questioning it.
here is mine it is very similar to yours. if I can give my opinion there it is. I do not think that the fact that it is signed is not a guarantee of seniority. Many jewelers of the 60’s and 70’s made casts from older designs from the 30’s to 50’s and made them believe they were genuine. according to my research a TUFA sculpture actually only allows 5 to 10 castings maximum and you will agree with me certain buckle or naja pattern. So I assume that the castings are always or almost contentious, I think my buckle from the late 60’s or early 70’s, even though turquoise is natural.
