My late Brother James and I met with RL’s brother in law and buyer, Joe Goldman in NY in '81 when ‘Santa Fe’ was the absolute ‘rage’. Every one wanted the ‘authentic look’ on their models, in their magazines, and on their bodies. Jim and I made the rounds, got write ups and spreads in Vogue, Bazaar, Tobe (an insider trade rag) and a bunch of other publications. Back then, Indian and Southwestern Jewelry was still (at least mostly) made here in the US, so department stores actually bought the genuine article, we had a great time, and great success in NY, and life was good.
As it turned out RL didn’t end up buying anything from us, or anyone else we knew, and at that time everyone in the business pretty much knew every one else, and every bonafide buyer in the US who was buying anything in volume.
By the time the early 90’s rolled around major fashion houses were all turning to Asia, and China was their rising star. When the first knockoffs of my own designs started turning up nationwide, the copies were all Taiwanese or Chinese.
I suspect that the referenced ‘reproduction’ buckles were either produced by a company called “Ivan” in Taipei Taiwan, or by one of their direct competitors.