Toadlena Trading Post

[Ziacat]

Oh! This category is near and dear to my heart. When we travel in the four corners area, my husband and I try to search out some of the old trading posts. I had always wanted to go to Toadlena Trading Post, but whenever we were in the area it never seemed like we had the time. So finally in '21 when we were traveling from ABQ to Mesa Verde, CO we visited it. The post is down a back road off of US491 on the way from Gallup to Shiprock right at the edge of the Lukachukai Mountains. It’s not particularly hard to get to, but you definitely need to Google the directions, and the last few miles are gravel.

There are 2 trading posts close to each other, Two Grey Hills (we didn’t make it there, because we ran out of time and the road was too rough for our rental car) and Toadlena. Back in the early 1900’s the owners of the posts collaborated with the local Navajos to develop the famous Two Grey Hill weavings. The website has a lot of history, and there is a very good museum on site.

Homepage

The trading post is wonderful inside; very old school with old linoleum floors, a tin ceiling, and original wood and glass cases. They sell a few groceries for the locals, and there was some jewelry in one of the cases, but I was on a mission to buy a rug (a Two Grey Hills weaving has always been on my wish list). You have to ask to see the rug rooms, and, goodness! Rugs everywhere - in piles on the floor, hanging on the walls, folded on shelves. It was amazing.

Here are a few pics; they aren’t super clear, because I took them through the windshield, and it was starting to rain. These first two are of the post.

This one is looking east from the post.

These I snapped on the road to the trading post (one is for us horse lovers ).

And here is my rug…

I know this entry is long, but I can’t emphasize enough how wonderful it is to purchase Native made art near where it is made. I know the phrase" stepping back in time" is kinda cliche, but it felt so true at Toadlena. The whole time we were in the building, there was only one other couple shopping, so the experience was entirely unique. If any of you have the chance to visit it, go!!

[Bmpdvm]

I agree @Ziacat, it’s a great TP for Two Grey Hill rugs!!! Thanks for all your great pictures.
We’ve been to both Toadlena and Two Grey Hills: I was much more impressed with Toadlena. The rug museum is spectacular!
Our first visit was years ago, in the early 1990’s, before Mark Winters and his wife took over. As I recall, it was operated by an older couple who were very informative. It has changed more recently, as everything has!

[Ziacat]

We didn’t actually have time to visit the museum. We were on a pretty tight schedule seeing as I had chosen a back route from ABQ, and we were headed to Mesa Verde to spend the night, but I have read about it and know it is worthwhile. I also took a long time picking out the perfect rug I’m such a Hillerman fangirl, that I had always wanted to visit Crownpoint where they hold the monthly rug auction; many scenes in his books take place there. We weren’t there at the time of the auction, but I went way out of my way just to see the place so I can picture it in my mind when I read. We hopped off I-40 at Thoreau, drove up to Crownpoint, and then cut west on Navajo Service Rt 9 to 491. I love traveling those back roads across the Rez.

The only person we talked to at the post was a older Navajo woman who I believe was the wife of the owner. She helped us pick out a rug.

There are so many places I still want to visit. Last time we stayed in Farmington I had hoped to check out some of the trading posts there, but unfortunately it was July fourth weekend, and they were all closed

I just added a pic of my rug!

[Ravenscry]

Thank you for sharing all of this @Ziacat. You’re the first to chime in when someone posts inquiries into traveling the Four Corners, and I recall you sharing your wonderful resource, Trading Post Guidebook (Eddington and Makov, 1995) as well. I had a feeling you would be one of the very first to contribute to this great new category!

Your photos are lovely, as are your weavings. That piece of pottery looks beautiful!

Thank you, again for this content!

[Ziacat]

You are welcome! Yes, that book is so well used it’s starting to fall apart Thank you regarding the Santo Domingo/Kewa bowl; it’s part of the centerpiece on our dining room table. We bought it a long time ago at a lovely little shop in old town ABQ called Morning Star Gallery which has since closed (of course). The gentleman that owned it was elderly back then, and it carried mostly antique and vintage items. It’s a gallery I would have put in this thread if it was still open - I also bought some jewelry there.

We bought the rug at Shush Yaz in Gallup; it’s a Teec Nos Pos design.

[Bmpdvm]

Do try to get to Crownpoint sometime. It’s a great experience with the hundreds of rugs and weavers! I’ve been a couple times. The last time was in 2018 (gosh time goes fast). A close friend and enabler (we enable each other) bought this gorgeous Storm pattern rug that we both loved. We spent some time speaking with the weaver; that’s part of the experience, so many weavers are there when their rug sells.

On our recent trip we stopped at Teec Nos Pos Trading post and spent quite a bit of time talking with the owners and picking out a rug. Most of my other rugs are Two Grey Hills, so this was a departure:
It’s going on the wall, but for now is on a loveseat:

You said you spoke with an older Navajo woman at Toadlena who you thought was the wife of the owner. She was likely an employee and maybe a weaver (?). They are very knowledgable! The couple who operate the TP, Mark Winters and his wife, are not Navajo, and she is blond (can’t remember her name). I knew them from yearly Indian Art shows in the bay area in California. Your rug is beautiful; I still think Two Grey Hills are my favorite😊

Oh…FYI, there is a Morning Star Gallery in Santa Fe. I don’t know if they are associated with the gallery you mentioned in Albuquerque, but they carry variety of exceptional antique and contemporary pottery, jewelry, and plains indian historic pieces:

Morning Star Gallery

[Ziacat]

Not the same store; the one we visited was in old town and is definitely closed. It was rather tiny, and packed with all kinds of older/vintage items including depression era paintings. It was truly a treasure. I looked up the name again in my trading post guidebook (which led me there) and the name was Morningstar Gallery, like the one you linked, except one word, not two. The gentleman that owned it had to have been around 80 when we were last there in '05. He was a joy to chat with. We have walked a lot down Canyon Road, but never really shopped. Pretty much out of my price range, and TBH, some of the stores seemed a bit stiff and soulless.

And yes, apparently I remembered wrong about the lady I talked to at Toadlena. I knew the owner wasn’t Navajo, but I just got mixed up. She was not a weaver, but the rug I bought was made by her sister.

Thanks for the pic from Crownpoint - it should be in a Hillerman book. I don’t know that I’ll get back there; too much to do and not enough time anymore. But we have been to Teec Noc Pos several times and also bought a rug. But not as gorgeous as yours!

[Bmpdvm]

Thanks for the clarification…I was kinda confused when you said Morningstar because the gallery in SF is not tiny, nor is it packed😬. The little place in Albuquerque sounds quaint and wonderful! If it’s around the Plaza, chances are that I’ve been there…just don’t remember.
I hadn’t been to Teec Nos Pos for probably 15 - 18 years, and as typical it had changed a lot, but we really enjoyed taking with the owners.
With your love of everything NA, you should try to get to Crownpoint. When we there in 2018, there were also a lot of tables with artists selling jewelry. It has become more than just rugs, but what a variety of rugs! Something for everybody. It’s an experience you’d love.

[Ziacat]

Oh, I just realized I said Santa Fe, duh-uh, I meant ABQ

Maybe I’ll get to Crownpoint again eventually. Because of living in IN it’s hard to get out there as much, and we spend quite a bit of time around the Great Lakes. Next June our Church is sending a group to spend a week helping at a Navajo Children’s Home near Holbrook, AZ, but there won’t be time for doing much else while there. I am helping coordinate the trip, so will be pretty busy. We had volunteered there in '19, and it certainly makes you see everything in a different light. I’m also hoping to go see our nephew in CO soon.

Now I’ve got to get some sleep!