I got this unmarked buckled at an intertribal powwow in Amarillo probably about 1997. I remember because the hoop dancer Eddie Swimmer was there, and I got him to sign a matted US postage stamp with him on it, so it had to be around '97-'98.
There is a signed one listed on Ebay that is almost identical in form, but with a larger turquoise cab, attributed to Ambrose Lincoln in the description. The turquoise even seems to have the same color of pyrite inclusions as mine.
Can someone tell me how often were molds reused, and is it most likely mine would be from the same artist, just unmarked? Or might it be a workshop situation with multiple artists and some castings were just not marked?
(Full disclosure: I’m doing research so I can present it as honestly and accurately as possible for my own listing.)
This is dependant on the material the mold is made from. Tufa rock molds are generally only used once or twice. Due to tufa’s fragility and porous nature, the heat cycles from casting as well as the carving of the mold itself, make it even more susceptible to cracking or breaking.
Sand casting molds are a single use approach, as generally the mold is broken to remove the work. While these molds may not be ideal for multiple piece runs, the process of recreating the cavity is much faster than carving tufa, and the sand is easily reclaimed.
Other mold materials include vulcanized rubber and/or silicone, ceramic/plaster, concrete, the bone of a cuttlefish (used for it’s distinctive texture), delft clay, and even metal molds, like cast iron, some of which are very well suited for multiple piece runs.
There’s also the casting method itself to consider. Whether it’s what I’ll refer to as “traditional”, like tufa or sand, lost wax or investment casting, centrifugal, or vacuum casting.
I can’t speak to the artist, but there are common patterns of cast buckles that have been copied many times over, by multiple artists, over decades. A smith wouldn’t necessarily need the original in hand either, a photo would suffice for recreating the mold. It’s the design that’s copied, sometimes with excruciating detail to the original.
One element of your buckle that’s interesting is the handmade swivel bar and keepers. You’ll notice the eBay buckle has a commercially made swivel bar and hinges. Although it appears that may have been a later repair, as it doesn’t fit the buckle’s height and there looks to be evidence of the original belt attachment point.
Here is one currently available from a reputable gallery that is nearly identical to yours, albeit with a fixed bar.
I believe the eBay buckle sold in an auction I was watching in March.
@Marlowe That’s a very nice buckle. It looks heavy and well made.
@Ravenscry did an excellent job of explaining the different methods of casting. Not much to add other than I have looked at hundreds of different belt buckle cast patterns and many of them, if not most, have been repeated. It is relatively common to find the same pattern with different hallmarks or no hallmark.
Unfortunately, I am not experienced enough to say which method was used to create your buckle.
Hi @Marlowe, Both @Ravenscry, and @TAH are serious buckle collectors and really know their stuff. Here’s my two cents.
The casting quality on the buckle is top notch, as is the finishing. The stone looks like stabilized Morenci, or perhaps Ithica Peak. The setting itself is simple and well made. The silversmith took the trouble to match the ends of the twist wire wrap to make the it seamless at the solder joint. The handmade hinge and post is well done, and the silversmith took the time to file and shape the post. The back of the buckle shows a bit of residual pitting near the hinge which may be an artifact carried over from the sand casting from which the mold used to shoot the wax for the casting was made. It could also be an imperfection in the wax itself, or porosity which when present usually occurs where the sprue is attached.
Looking at the edges from the back, it looks like the buckle went through a tumble finishing process after casting, and before the setting, post and hinge were soldered on.
This is probably a lost wax casting purchased in a supply house by a skilled amateur silversmith who made the setting, post, and hinge and did an extraordinary job on the finishing work to get the smooth liquidy finish on the front. Looking at the attention and type of detail, my best guess is that a non-native silversmith like our own very talented @Stracci who is absolutely meticulous about quality and detail did the work.
While the original casting from which the mold was made was almost certainly Navajo made, this buckle is likely not. Without provenance to the contrary it can certainly be represented as a beautifully made piece made in a Navajo style, it should not be represented as Navajo, or Native made.
Oh my goodness, thank you so much for all this. I had noticed about the swivel and keepers after I posted this last night! I was scrolling through buckle after buckle listing, seeing that most had the commercial style of attachments. I had originally started to ask if it could be a copy, but it was so very close the other two I found–the loops lean slightly bigger in the same places, etc.–that I decided I better wait and see what opinions were. Thanks!
Thank you for weighing in–I had seen some repeated during my searches, but didn’t know what it indicated about the process. This is all very helpful.
Great information, thank you! I confess I like my buckle better than the one in the Ebay listing I linked, so your opinion of the finishing work makes me feel validated, lol. I appreciate you pointing out that I shouldn’t present it even as Native or Navajo. I have other pieces going into the sell pile that I know should be presented as “Southwestern” or “Native-style”, but this one I would have never even thought about it.
It’s a very lovely buckle. I would say in general if I was selling something, even if I am pretty sure it could be by a certain artist, without a hallmark and actual provenance I wouldn’t say that it is.
Just a thought: if your selling it maybe don’t polish it. It looks pretty shiny, and a lot of people prefer some patina.
Thanks, @Ziacat. I won’t polish it. I just wiped some lint off with a dry cloth for the pictures–it’s been in a drawer wrapped in fabric for a very long time. Hopefully when I get better photos outside it won’t look so much like it’s been sterilized.
