Belt Buckles & Concho Belts

Love them all! That bottom one is my absolute favorite. I hear you on the waiting for something to do …I was glad early yesterday to have some activity on here as we waited around :laughing:

I like how you framed the buckles with your belts, and went from round to solid square to open square buckles.

1 Like

Interesting that other than the Leekya style buckle, you have them laid out by age which also coordinates with the shape progression that I noticed.

1 Like

Thanks Zia! Good point! I didn’t really do that intentionally. I just placed the “Leekya” buckle with the other oval buckles. But you’re right, the order does show a progression.

2 Likes

This is such a wonderful photograph, Tom. As @Ziacat points out, the composition is lovely and satisfying. But more than that, this is an absolute world class collection of fine buckles. There lies within it so much history, varying technique, and uniqueness. All of which push your collection to a level that any museum displaying Native American art would be proud to exhibit.

The discipline in your collecting is apparent. The ability to acquire work from the earliest period of Navajo silversmithing, through the classical period of the 30’s and 40’s, and on into the 70’s, all the while making certain each piece is unique, is something very difficult to execute, I feel. Your collection embodies the adage “quality over quantity” and is a testament to your unwavering dedication.

Thank you for putting this together and sharing. It’s wonderful seeing your magnificent buckles together, and provides much inspiration!:+1::grinning:

4 Likes

With nothing to do during the snow storm yesterday, I took a closer look at my Reeves ranger set and decided the buckle needed a leather backing for more substance and a better foundation. I have never attempted to make a leather backing on this type of buckle, but it turned out great and I’m very pleased with the outcome.

11 Likes

It looks great! I can’t imagine being able to do something like that.

How much snow did you get? We got maybe an inch during the night and that’s it. But it’s quite cold.

3 Likes

Stunning work Tom! You’ve performed an incredible job at executing a wonderful idea, first class as always :+1:

3 Likes

Sweet! Let‘s hope this becomes a trend.

3 Likes

Thanks, you three!

9 inches and I could have used Aaron’s (a.k.a @Ravenscry) shearling coat during the dig out.

3 Likes

I’d have gladly sent it, Tom!

1 Like

I wanted to share my most recent buckle acquisition. There was a bit of back and forth on this one, as one of the settings had sustained damage at some point in the buckles long life. After some urging by @TAH, I inquired as to having the setting fixed, and it was expertly repaired by Navajo silversmith Jimmy Begay from Mentmore, New Mexico.

Navajo, 3 5/8" x 3 3/8", 76 grams, 1 3/8" belt, ca. 1920



8 Likes

What a fantastic collection!

1 Like

Such a cool belt buckle. I love how they stamped the area around the repousse to make it look like a rope edge.

3 Likes

Today, while exploring local shops, I came across this Roger Skeet belt. Asking $3600.

However, the gentleman helping me thought the butterflies were not original to the belt. And while we were looking at it, he didn’t think Roger made the conchos (the buckle has the RS hallmark) due to the difference in patina and differing engraving. We found one concho with “sterling” engraved into it.

It was pretty, but the butterflies threw me off. Sorry for the bad photo.

2 Likes

Hey @BlytheEcho, pretty belt.

So there appear to be a few things going on. Did the salesperson happen to explain that there are two (known) Roger Skeets? Roger Skeet Sr. worked for the infamous trader C.G. Wallace and did not hallmark his work. His son, Roger Skeet Jr. was born in 1932 and marks his work with “R S”. Both are well known for their concho belts.

There was also a period that Jr. marked his work “R SKEET JR”, as seen below, on this first phase revival belt crafted by him. In this instance, Jr.'s hallmark with the broken “E” dates this belt to the 1950s. (Hougart’s 4th Edition P. 316)

The buckle from the belt you posted certainly is characteristic of Jr.'s work. I found the photos below of what appear to be the same belt.

@TAH owns a lovely buckle crafted by Roger Skeet Jr. While we both share a passion for Navajo crafted adornment of the waist, he’s much more knowledgeable than myself, so perhaps he’ll chime in to set me straight, but the buckle on the belt you shared does appear (to me) to be a Jr. work, taking into account the craftsmanship, style, and hallmark.

Below are a handful of belts made by Jr.

Jr. uses many of his father’s stamps and the style of both Skeets is undeniably similar. Concerning the belt you shared, the cast(?) (Feel free to interject @mmrogers) butterflies (or spacers) are throwing me for a loop. While there’s no way to be certain, the butterflies and conchos just don’t seem correct, but please know that is simply my opinion, and I’m no expert. I did find the photo below of a buckle that resembles the conchos. While not a dead ringer, it does bear similarities.

As well as this listing photo for a butterfly of similar design. The listing states that this is “From the estate of Arnold Goldstein, of James Reid design”.

Arnold Goldstein, which you may already know, was a famed New York based designer. In 1968, he, by chance, met then unknown designer Ralph Lauren. From then on the pair worked together and have performed some not so admirable work (in my eyes), copying original Navajo designs and semi-mass producing them. :-1:

James Reid, who you may also be aware of, was somewhat renowned for his belts and accessories.

Here is a Reid belt.

To my knowledge, James Reid Ltd. is no longer around. Below is an interesting article concerning him.

All of that said, I feel the buckle on the belt you shared was made by Roger Skeet Jr., but am really skeptical of the conchos and butterflies. We’ll see what others have to say and share. Thank you for sharing!

5 Likes

@Ravenscry that was exactly the conclusion we came to in the shop. You did find photos of the exact belt. The gentleman (not necessarily a sales person), pointed out the differences in the stamping between the buckle and the conchos and concluded that they most likely were not made by the same person. And he flat out said the butterflies were added just because.

I would have purchased the buckle as a standalone piece. But I was not paying $3600 for a “Frankenstein” belt, as he called it, haha.

Thank you again for going beyond to find and explain everything for me. I truly appreciate it.

I also really liked the conchos (and the buckle you found is beautiful!), but it was frustrating to look at the mish mash going on.

7 Likes

I agree, Aaron. Buckle is Roger Jr.'s work. Conchos and butterflies, probably not. As you know, buckles were commonly replaced or interchanged with belts, so I’m guessing that is the case here.

6 Likes

I concur, Tom. Without doubt this is a fine buckle swapped onto an assemblage of belt components.

5 Likes

I’m going to add this green turquoise concho belt in just for the aesthetics and to have it in the thread. I found it in a local consignment shop, listed for $3,600.





5 Likes

Nothing to add, Aaron. Agree with your assessment, @BlytheEcho, and @TAH. Would be very surprised if these pieces were from the same hand.

4 Likes