I wouldn’t be surprised if the butterflies in the belt @BlytheEcho posted are Goldstein butterflies. He seemed to favor this design.
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No doubt @TAH! I would agree. For @BlytheEcho and any other new(ish) members, I need to give @TAH credit for originally bringing to light the Ralph Lauren/Goldstein connection years ago. I was simply piggybacking off of info he previously shared. I meant to put that in my initial response but obviously failed to do so. So thanks again, Tom!
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Thanks Aaron, but I know you would agree, it’s credit I wish was never attainable.
I will say this about Goldstein’s work - once seen, it can’t be unseen.
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I believe that’s the concho belt that has the flying hot dog, I haven’t been able to unsee that 
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I do agree Tom, wholeheartedly. Personally I am thankful you shared all that you learned while in pursuit of your sandcast buckle. I just wanted to let others know that thanks to your detective work, we all know about the distasteful (in my opinion) practices of Goldstein. Many may view it through a different lense, but I feel you did members and visitors to this forum a great service! 
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This is all so great and educational! Thank you @TAH and @Ravenscry so much for weighing in.
I popped down to Tubac today and was able to look at the belts (and other pieces) with a slightly more informed eye. I have a long way to go, so thank you all for sharing your knowledge!
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Hi! The Ranger set is beautiful, but I’m interested in the actual belt in this photo. Did you make it? Or can you recommend where to have one made? Thank you!
Hello, thanks for your interest!
Yes, I made the belt using a 2" wide Crazy Horse leather strap along with 3/4" interchangeable billets in different lengths to accommodate different buckles and to keep them centered. The billets are held in place by Chicago screws and washers to give the appearance of large rivets, but are easily removed. Behind each washer is a handmade, thin leather washer to prevent slippage and to give the unit a little more height. It’s all very modular.
Typically, Native buckles, especially ones with center bars, have cutout centers in different, odd sizes, so this helps reduce the need for multiple belts. Unfortunately, I’m not sure who to send you to for similar work and sorry I can’t be of more help.
This belt is 1 5/8" wide and styled differently, but has the same set up.
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That’s a beautiful belt, and a great solution. I’ve never had a problem, but that’s probably because I don’t own any buckles with the center cut out.
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Your belt is absolutely brilliant!! Thank you so much for explaining how it’s assembled and that it really is almost “one size fits all” for your stunning buckle collection.
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Love the craftsmanship, Tom!
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Thank you, Michael! I wouldn’t even attempt your jewelry work. That requires real talent.
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Appreciate that Tom, but I’ve seen your photography and leatherwork, and both are amazing!
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There’s no doubt that each of us have preferences in jewelry. A time period, form, stone, style, silversmith, what have you, that really gets us going. For me, it’s unique, pre 1940 waist adornment, in the forms of both buckles and concho belts. I understand that this new acquisition of mine won’t get everyone’s motor running, but for me, this one’s pretty special.
This was purchased from the estate of Martha Pillard, a collector of Oceanic and Native American art and jewelry by the renowned dealer that I dealt with.
Leather included, it weighs 883.50 grams. It’s got a wonderful, hefty feel, both in the hand and on the waist.
A Schwerter’s Solution acid test, on a vrigin testing stone, confirms that the buckle and conchos were crafted from coin silver.
There are evident, although faded, file marks present on the horseshoe shaped buckle. The stampwork on the buckle reveals some tremendous detail in the fletching portion of the arrow motifs, and that, as @mmrogers has taught us, is a testament to the work invested into the stamps themselves.
The triangular cutouts in the 3 5/8" x 3 1/8" conchos present with the slightest amount of misalignment and bear swedged edges from the half-circular stamps used to decorate them, shoring up my belief that they were cut by hand. The edges of the conchos show honest wear, with rolled edges that have worn into the stampwork ever so slightlyand the holes in the periphery are undoubtedly punched. Considering the imperfections in the stampwork, inconsistencies in their depth, as well as their placement, I am confident in saying it was performed by hand.
The leather does appear to be original. I was told as much from the dealer, as well as that the belt is in the “as collected” state that Martha purchased it in, her catalogue backs this up as well. The concho backings are quite stiff, but the belt strap itself has a beautiful, worn softness to it. It is also terminated in one of my own and @TAH’s favorite manners, a tapered cut, which was common on older Navajo belts. The knot securing the buckle appears and feels deeply aged.
Navajo, ca. 1900
A few nights ago, I was organizing some books, and stopped to enjoy Larry Frank and Millard J. Holbrook’s Indian Silver Jewelry of the Southwest, 1868-1930. A certain portion of the cover photo gave me pause…
Then I found the following on page 181. There’s no question that my newly acquired belt and the published belt are different pieces, but the similarities are striking. @TAH and I came to the same conclusion, that there is a very good chance that this belt and the published example were crafted by the same Navajo silversmith. The rivet securing the buckle on the published belt is more than likely a contemporary fix. But I found the dating of the horseshoe buckle interesting, and it does support the dealer’s word, as well as Martha’s catalogue, of my belt dating to 1900.
I commend you if you’ve made it this far without getting bored. It’s my wish that many of you have enjoyed it!
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@Ravenscry I think your new acquisition is absolutely stunning. You’ve actually inspired me to pick up a buckle (or 3) with your beautiful collection. But this new belt is something else. Having been a farrier in a past life, I have an affinity for horseshoes, so the “delicate” buckle is definitely a draw. What a find and congratulations!
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Thank you for your kind words @BlytheEcho. @TAH is an inspiration for myself, so it would be fair to say he’s inspired you as well.
I can’t wait to see your newly acquired buckles! Neat to know you’re a farrier. Experiences and skills like that are a part of us, so to me you still are one!
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Beautiful belt, Aaron!
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Ha, I’m not sure a career from 20 years ago still counts. But it was an important part of my life.
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What an amazing belt! I don’t know much about concho belts, but I feel like I’m learning a lot on here. I probably would never wear a concho belt (I don’t wear the buckles I have nearly enough), but they just look… So. Dang. Cool. And the fact that it’s over 100 yrs old just adds to the appeal. What a treasure you have! Even with all the time I have spent around horses through the years, I didn’t realize that the buckle was a horseshoe till you mentioned it. Thanks for sharing and explaining it. I went back and forth from your description to the pictures to see if I could make out the details.
@BlytheEcho, I’m so impressed that you are a farrier; that cannot be an easy job. At the barn where I ride, the farrier comes in about every other week, and it’s fun to watch him work. And hey! You’re still a farrier! I’m an RN that hasn’t worked as one in over 25 years, and I still consider myself a nurse 
, although you might not want to have me take care of you in a serious situation seeing as I’ve forgotten an awful lot
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Thank you, Mike. I can’t look at stampwork without thinking of you and your words, for which I am very grateful!
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