Belt Buckles & Concho Belts

[Ravenscry]

As mentioned earlier, this most recently acquired belt needed a prong, which I planned on making, and I also had reservations about the original leather. It was important that I be able to wear the belt, and the thought of simply buying sterling wire and bending a prong wasn’t all that appealing. I wanted the process, materials, and tools utilized for this to jive with the age of the belt. It took a while to wrap this up, but the following, lengthy trail of photos covers Project Prong and installing the components on an old piece of leather from a militaria collector.

The original leather lace securing the buckle was unthreaded, allowing it’s removal.

A couple close ups of the buckle.

This is the start of the project, showing the tufa rock for the casting of the ingot, and the original belt components.

Using a flat lead float file to roughly smooth and true up the edges that will be used for layout. The mating surfaces were trued to each other after this.

Laying out the cavity. These Darling Brown & Sharpe vernier calipers were made between 1866-1892

Carving the cavity, sprue hole, and vents.

The mold halves were carbonized with acetylene, to aid in the silver’s release.

An 1880 Morgan silver dollar and an 1895 Barber half dollar were used for the silver. The hand forged, forge welded ladle dates to the same period as the belt.

Forging the ingot to thickness

Laying out the flat pattern of the prong

Rough filing to shape

First bend performed, wrap around the buckle’s center bar

Back-to-back bends executed and wrapping complete. The “new” military leather is hiding in the background.

While tough to convey though a photo, here it is antiqued with Griffith’s Silver-Black.

The old military leather belt as it was collected.

Scrap strips from trimming it to width.

The “new” leather, trimmed to width and burnished.

Thinning of scrap strips to utilize for lacing the attachment point of the buckle, similarly to how it was done originally.

Completion!

I’ll be sure to share a photo of it where it belongs, on the waist, in @Ziacat’s thread, How do we combine and wear our Native American bling

I’ve got a massive chunk of tufa rock left over, as well as the remainder of the coin silver ingot, that I would be more than happy to donate if anyone was so inclined as to take a project on.

[StevesTrail]

Very nice work @Ravenscry . It’s such a good feeling to make something yourself. I’d be interested in the tufa. I have a couple things in mind for the future. Let me know.

[Ziacat]

Wow! Amazing, and thanks for showing the steps in detail. Not only am I impressed with what you did, but it also makes me appreciate even more the work of the Native artists.

Your belt looks perfect now, and, even better, is wearable. Such a perfect buckle IMO.

[Ravenscry]

Thank you, @StevesTrail, for your kind words. While it was obviously a very small project, it was also my first foray into working silver. It was enjoyable to say the least.

@Ziacat

makes me appreciate even more the work of the Native artists

All of that for a prong. I often think about all of the fine silver that has been worked, historically, with very few tools. It’s mind blowing, really. It’s also very cool that many of the processes used today are unchanged from 150+ years ago. While working on this project in an LED lit shop, standing on concrete, I felt like I was cheating. Thank you for your compliments, Zia. The buckle on this belt is definitely one of my favorites.

[mmrogers]

Wow. Beautifully done, Aaron. My compliments! This is real craftsmanship, and the kind of immersive dedication to the subject, and art few ever take the trouble to learn and experience firsthand.

So many so called “experts” in this business couldn’t make a piece of the items they portend to know all about to save their lives. This is where the rubber meets the road! This is the way! Hats off.

[Ravenscry]

You are too gracious, Mike, but your words are very much appreciated and respected. I really wanted to retain some of the marks from forming it, as well as the file marks. I felt that it would suit the belt better and that the original prong wouldn’t have been “perfectly” finished. So please don’t take my leaving it rather rough as a sign of laziness or not following through, it was intended.

[mmrogers]

Didn’t think that for a minute, Aaron. You went over and above to use period methods and materials. The resulting work has the authentic look and feel of the intended period. Clearly successful. Fantastic work!

I have to ask, have you been collecting handmade stamps, and learning to use them as well? I’d love to see them!

[OrbitOrange]

Wow. Well color me impressed—I have so many questions!

Was this your first foray into working silver? Had you cast before? Were you afraid you would burn your house down? I know you collect old tools as well as antique Native jewelry; were these all tools you had collected? Did you always have in mind using them to make something yourself? Did you figure out how to do this yourself or did you have a teacher?

Really great job; I’m impressed with your commitment to learning and to staying true to the original materials and methods. The finished belt looks fantastic.

[Ravenscry]

@mmrogers

have you been collecting handmade stamps

I haven’t had much luck finding ones for sale, but I’ve also yet to reach out to pawn shops in the Southwest. Which, as you shared, would be a great avenue.

@mmrogers

learning to use them as well

Unfortunately no, I haven’t. I’ve reached out to numerous galleries and dealers, letting them know of my interest, but that has yet to yield anything.

In @Ziacat’s thread Yeah, I totally blew through my budget - can't even see it in my rearview mirror, where we covered our experiences at this year’s Eiteljorg Market, I shared some photos of tools and stamps that a Navajo smith had brought, as he planned on making a few cuffs at the show. After talking with him for a bit, he showed me everything and allowed me to admire them. I was just in awe. At one point, he reached to grab one of the bigger concho stamps that an older uncle of his had made, I’d been holding and studying it for a number of minutes.

[mmrogers]

With your professional skills, and understanding of metallurgy, making stamps yourself shouldn’t be a challenge but will definitely add extra dimension and breadth to your hands on understanding of the techniques and processes involved. I have no doubt that should you decide to try it, you’ll be an outstanding stamp maker!

[Ravenscry]

@OrbitOrange

Was this your first foray into working silver?

Indeed it was.

@OrbitOrange

Had you cast before?

I hadn’t.

@OrbitOrange

Were you afraid you would burn your house down?

I worked on this in the fabrication area of my shop, (which is segregated from the machine shop for cleanliness reasons) where we perform all manner of welding and fabrication, so burning the place to the ground wasn’t a concern. I’d like to add that even if I didn’t have access to similar facilities, I’d still have tackled it in a heartbeat. I feel that fear prevents far too much in this world, and that being mindful, careful, and (intelligently) confident can work wonders.

@OrbitOrange

were these all tools you had collected?

Many of the tools that are in the photos were my grandfather’s, but there are a couple that I’d purchased strictly for this project, like the ladle.

@OrbitOrange

Did you always have in mind using them to make something yourself?

To be honest, no. My original thought behind collecting the older silversmithing tools was (and still is) to put together a small display in my home similar to what is in the Millicent Rogers Museum. Where old, worn coins are gathered and ready to be melted, handmade stamps are laid out on the anvil, a pump drill leans against the anvil’s stump with a few rough pieces of turquoise at it’s base, and perhaps even a lone, early concho is resting on the anvil. That’s my romanticized view of it anyway. I’ll admit, it was pretty neat to forge the ingot for the prong on that old stump anvil, the transferred silver definitely adds to the look.

@OrbitOrange

Did you figure out how to do this yourself or did you have a teacher?

I consider myself always a student, OO. I didn’t have anyone that taught me, but I am an avid reader, and have absorbed John Adair’s classic text The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths more than a few times. I think that all of the research, photos, and books I’ve poured over in the years previous sort of led up to this. I bought the belt knowing it needed a prong, and told myself that this was the only way, that I’d get it done no matter what.

Thank you, @OrbitOrange, and everyone else, for your enthusiastic responses, interest, and graciously kind comments.

[chicfarmer]

Very, very impressive work, and more so your generosity in sharing your journey. Thank you, and carry on, Aaron!

[Phoenix7]

Well done!
That is genuinely quite impressive, and inspirational.

[TAH]

@Ravenscry

I bought the belt knowing it needed a prong, and told myself that this was the only way, that I’d get it done no matter what.

That sentence says it all, Aaron! There is no doubt John picked the right person to be this special belt’s next caretaker. How many collectors would go to this much effort using period correct tools, materials, and techniques for a missing prong and to replace the strap? Your passion for antique Navajo silver and the thought you put into this project is clearly evident!

I had the privilege of getting step-by-step updates on this project and I can tell you it was more entertaining and interesting than anything coming out of Hollywood. Exceptional work, Aaron!

[Ravenscry]

Thank you, @chicfarmer it was a pleasure putting it together and serving it up for those interested. Everyone’s thoughtful and supportive comments aren’t, by any means, sought out, but are deeply appreciated and not taken lightly.

@Phoenix7

inspirational

To pursue our passions while on our own trail is satisfying, but to have a community to share them with makes it even more enjoyable. I’ve drawn inspiration, knowledge, passion, and dedication from many of the members here, so it’s great to read that you found some as well, @Phoenix7.

[Ravenscry]

@TAH

How many collectors would go to this much effort

Only those with more than a few screws loose, Tom.

@TAH

I can tell you it was more entertaining and interesting than anything coming out of Hollywood.

HA! Surely you haven’t dropped interest in Canyon Del Muerto?

Snide remarks and jokes out of the way…Thank you, Tom, for your all too kind and gracious words. It was thoroughly enjoyable taking this on and seeing it through. Your energetic support never fails to serve as motivation, and I’m grateful for it.

@TAH

I had the privilege of getting step-by-step updates on this project

What Tom isn’t mentioning is that his “private viewing” of the happenings pertaining to this project were draaawwwwwn ooouuut, similar to the pace of a But hey, at least it’s done.

[StevesTrail]

Well this was a nice synopsis hitting on the major points. Guess many of us have some screws loose. But it sure is a nice feeling of accomplishment.

[Stracci]

Great job @Ravenscry !
An honest and true-to-period fabrication!
Making hand forged jewelry is very satisfying.
You have a big chunk of tufa left.
What will you make next?

[Ravenscry]

Thank you, @Stracci It’s easy to see how it could become addictive!

@Stracci

What will you make next?

Honestly, this was all born from necessity, and wanting to stay true to the rest of the belt. While I really enjoyed it, I probably won’t be making anything else. I thought about perhaps a cuff, but haven’t dedicated myself to it just yet. The remainder of the tufa will be donated to a long time member, perhaps we’ll see how he utilizes it.

[TAH]

@Ravenscry

While I really enjoyed it, I probably won’t be making anything else.

You’re probably correct, Aaron. Well, at least until that perfect, original First Phase, round, coin silver, concho belt comes around with a missing hand-cast harness buckle.