You’re very welcome, Aaron. It’s actually a bit surprising the tumble finishing process didn’t remove the bit of mold separation flash that remained. Something probably got wedged in that space during tumbling, or we wouldn’t see it at all.
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Thank you, Aaron, but let’s be honest. If you’re the student, then Mike is the experienced professor and I’m the guy who says, “If you have any questions, ask Mike.” 
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Thank you my friends for your kind sentiments. I’m just happy to help out where I can, to enjoy the fabulous jewelry, and participate in the terrific topics you guys post. We all benefit from your steadfast dedication to the genre, deep knowledge of the history and crafts, and value your many, many tremendous contributions!
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In my opinion, you’re already engaged in one of the most important aspects of process: research. I’m a huge proponent of reading, research, and discussing subjects with others who are really interested…and a lot more reading. Oh, I almost forgot, more reading, too. 
I’m not sure how vested you are in the subject, or if you already own it, but one of the single greatest reference materials concerning this form of adornment is A Study of Navajo Concha Belts by Donald and Karen Richards. @TAH kicked off this lovely thread with it. It’s by no means a stone tablet, as there is conflicting information, but it serves as a great source and contains countless beautiful photographs.
Because you asked, I’ve got a few pieces of advice that may aid you in your hunt.
- Read as much as you can stand on the subject.
- Look at as many photographs and visit as many museums as you can; find and study the ones that draw you in.
- Decide what you’re most attracted to.
- Make monetary decisions and form a plan.
I’m a big believer in impractable, outrageous goals. Personally, I think setting “limits” is equivalent to giving up or not starting in the first place; and I refuse to do either. But that’s just me; I don’t allow anything to get in my way, ever.
Concerning concho belts, as with many things, the relationship of age and rarity with price is commensurate; the earlier and more rare a belt, the more hefty the price tag. True Phase One belts are the most coveted, easily fetching more than most people pay for a brand new vehicle, early and/or great examples of Phase Two belts aren’t that far off, and Third Phase belts can range anywhere from hundreds to five figures.
There are countless trails one can ride in this search. So I say explore them all, decide what you love, and do whatever it takes to make it happen, period. 
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Thank you for taking the time to share your advice. It’s straightforward guidance, but I can already see how much patience it requires. Fortunately, I already enjoy the learning process so I look forward to the journey. 
“A Study of Navajo Concha Belts” is not available through my library, but available through Amazon. It sounds like it will be well worth having as a reference.
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Last year, in @TAH’s thread, What's your grail piece? , I mentioned my desire to acquire a First Phase concho belt. A survivor bearing a small, harness-type buckle, on its original narrow leather strap and comprised of the “standard” number of seven round, simple conchos, mated to their original leather backings, was what I had in mind.
Please allow this to share his thoughts…
As many here know, it’s generally agreed upon that round conchos predate the oval variety. While the Smithsonian has well documented examples from early buying trips of lone conchos, both round and oval, dating from the 1870’s, some of the earliest documented Spanish horse adornments contain round bridle conchos, and taking into consideration the influence of the Southern Plains cultures on the Navajo, and the round, German Silver conchos used in their hair drops and belts, it’s easy to lean towards round conchos being an earlier trait.
A while ago, this P1 belt became available. I don’t feel it’s super early, but it is an example of a form I am so very passionate about, and I can’t express what it means to be it’s next caretaker.
I feel that the buckle is original to the belt, and believe the well worn leather to be, as well. The oval conchos and their ornate stamp work is what has my gut dating it a bit later. The stamps, specifically the ones embellishing the central cutouts and perimeter scallops, point to refinement in the craft: supporting the later dating.
Navajo, First Phase, ca. 1880, 4” x 3 1/4” conchos, 1 3/4” x 1 1/8” buckle, 673 grams.
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Thanks to one of Aaron’s and my occasional rendezvous, I had the absolute pleasure of holding and examining this fine belt. Aaron is an excellent photographer, but even his photographic skills can’t capture the beauty of this piece in person, although that last photo is pretty dang close. This belt is simply magnificent in workmanship, weight, patina, and all of its little imperfections - not to mention the gorgeous, aged leather that shows years of use.
Congrats on a super addition to your collection, Aaron! It doesn’t get much better than this. 
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That is one gorgeous piece of history, Aaron. Congratulations on this beauty!
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Thank you, Tom and Mike, for your generous words and enthusiasm.
I would like to let everyone know, from our first rendezvous to the most recent one, that seeing and handling Tom’s leatherwork and exceptional collection of Navajo silver puts me at a loss for words. He does a phenomenal job at capturing his work and he shares his collection so tastefully, but it’s truthfully entirely different being able to hold and study it all in person.
We know better than that! There will always be a goal to chase and a dream to fulfill: the more unrealistic the better.
Recently, I recalled a quote that I’ve been using more and more, and have been applying it to a lot of things: your remark reminds me of it, Mike. History is more about the future than the past, and it is the bread for the journey. My passion for what came before has provided me new lenses with which I view contemporary art. It’s been game changing, and many members here have my gratitude for sharing their lovely collections and passions. 
I’ve been wanting to say this, and feel now is as good a time as any. This community deserves a big “Thank You”. I am beyond thankful for the friends that have been made, the great relationships that have developed, and the knowledge that has been gained from being a small part of this forum. One of which is in the same city I live in and another not too far away! With any good fortune, a number of us will conjoin at this year’s Eiteljorg Market and Festival.
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I’m speechless 
so I’ll shut up! Except to extend biggest congratulations on becoming the steward of this remarkable piece of history and artistry. Thanks for sharing!
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Thank you, Chic! You bring up something that is rarely discussed but that shouldn’t be forgotten: being a good steward for these collections of ours. Anyone can quietly amass piles of stuff, but to take good care and to share it with others for the furthering of the passion could be considered duties to the artwork: both of which, I feel, are important. There’s no motive for me other than to share and to perhaps spark similar fire in someone.
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What a beautiful historical belt. Definitely congrats!! I love the design of the little buckle.
I’m a bit confused; you said you don’t think it’s super early, but the words in italics put it at 1880s, which seems “early” to me? So are you saying you think it’s later than that?
Oh, and if you ever get tired of that blanket, it can visit with us for a while 
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Thank you Zia!
I apologize for not clarifying my thoughts, the way I composed that is definitively misleading. I should have said that I don’t feel that it’s super early for a First Phase belt. Earlier examples (1870’s) that I’ve seen are much simpler in execution and contain more chisel work than stamp work. It’s generally agreed upon that around the latter part of the 1870’s and early 1880’s, Navajo smiths were making more complex stamps and placing more embellishment into their work. Due to the multiple stamps present on this belt, and what I consider to be its refined design, I feel it dates a bit later, to the 1880’s. That’s also how it was represented, and everything that I’ve studied and read supported that.
Sorry about the confusion! 
Perhaps we could do a temporary weaving trade! 
You have many that I would love to borrow for a bit!
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Very nice purchase @Ravenscry . I enjoy seeing another that appreciates antiques in their original condition.
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Thank you, Steve.
Thanks for the clarification. Although 1880 still seems really early to me 
, but I understand now. I recently learned a bit about this history as I’m reading the Paula Baxter book.
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One of the best!
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This is another one of my trademark, lengthy installments to this fine thread. For me, it’s important to share everything I can and all that is pertinent, rather than whittling information down to the bare bones.
In December of last year, I acquired a concho belt with some interesting provenance. To provide a little context, I’m going to share some info that many here already know with the intent that it will serve as news to someone, at some point.
Collector and historian Larry Frank is known for many things; among having assembled one of the most comprehensive collections of Nuevomexicano religious artifacts, or santos, with his wife Alyce, he had published some of the most referenced material concerning the historic Southwest. A few of my favorites are
- Indian Silver Jewelry of the Southwest: 1868-1930
- A Land So Remote: Wooden Artifacts of Frontier New Mexico, 1708-1900s
- Historic Pottery of the Pueblo Indians, 1600-1880
Larry and Alyce’s collection, as it was displayed in their home.
A close friend of Larry’s, Millard “Skip” Holbrook, was a highly respected educator and expert in Native American silver jewelry. He taught jewelry-making and silversmithing at the Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA) in Santa Fe and assisted Mr. Frank in composing Indian Silver Jewelry of the Southwest: 1868-1930.
Photo of Skip shared by his hiking companion, close friend, and trader, Toby Herbst.
Larry Frank passed in 2006, and his wife Alyce had bestowed upon Skip some of Larry’s collection. This Second Phase belt was originally collected by Larry and was cared for by Skip who passed in 2025. Skip’s wife, Rose Holbrook, is who sold it to the trader I purchased it from.
At some point, it had been placed on a rather hideous looking, thin strap of burgundy leather. After over a dozen attempts at finding an ideal piece of vintage leather, I’ve just recently finished making it presentable and something I can enjoy on my waist.
Here are some photos of the individual components I’d taken while hunting “new” old leather.
Feeling akin to Goldilocks, I finally found an old belt that had the color I was after, was of substantial thickness, and was soft and supple without requiring much conditioning; I simply needed to trim its width. In this first shot, I get a kick out of the “missing” three line stamps at the perimeter of the rope border on the concho closest to the buckle.
The last piece of this puzzle was securing the buckle. Originally, after discussing it with @TAH, I’d planned on using strips of rawhide, which is common to see on older belts. It provides a unique look and because it is laced and tied when wet, as it dries, it shrinks and really draws down tight. But after multiple attempts, I just wasn’t getting favorable results. I then took yet another step backward in thinking that sinew could be neat. It can be woven into a much smaller diameter than rawhide, contains natural glues, and contracts similarly to rawhide: providing an incredibly strong hold. But that’s a bit too old of a technique for a belt of this age. So, I settled on tapered copper rivets. These feel more appropriate for the vintage of the belt, and I think they’ll age just beautifully. I was fortunate enough to find an assortment of new old stock rivets on eBay and these two fit the bill for appearance and height.
Finally, I can put this project to bed. 
Navajo, ca. 1920’s, 3" x 3 3/4" conchos, 3 1/8" x 3 3/4" buckle, 632.52 grams, formerly of the Larry Frank collection, Taos, NM.
I wanted to seat the rivets imperfectly and leave the rougher nature of the connection point in an attempt to blend with the rest of the belt. The brown color on the back of the buckle, around the opening, is residue from a piece of the burgundy leather that was glued in place. It had slits in it that would keep the 3/4” wide tail centered in the larger opening. I’ve tried a few different solutions to remove it and have come to terms with the fact that honest wear will do just fine at cleaning it off.
For anyone that didn’t fall asleep, thank you for following along. 
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Aaron, those rivets are perfect! Nice to see them finally in place. And great job on the replacement strap. What an improvement over the burgundy leather! Looks like a completely different belt.
I enjoyed reading the entire backstory. There were some details that I wasn’t aware of. It’s a beautiful belt, for sure, with its killer buckle and the impressive repousse height, which is off the charts. Congrats again!
That’s the problem with products that don’t carry a lifetime warranty. 
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Fantastic work, Aaron! I agree with Tom. Those rivets are amazing, and the buckle and conchas are incredible. I’d wear that belt in a heartbeat. Great post!
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