I bought this turquoise bow brooch from someone who was downsizing her collection. It’s marked Y & R Charley (Rose Charley), and I love it — especially the “infinity symbol” at the centre!
However, the joint where the pin meets the hinge is broken. The previous owner McGyvered it with some wire (see photos), and it’s wearable as is, but I’d prefer to get it fixed.
Is this a simple fix that can be readily done by a local jeweller?
Hi Chameke. if this a repair that requires the hinged portion of the clasp to be completely replaced this isn’t a fix that a fine jeweler would normally do, or necessarily even know how to do. Zuni type petit point is a very specialized area, and should only be worked on by someone who is very familiar with the construction, solder types, oxydizing agents, etc.
The proper way to do this would be to remove all of the stones, apply antiflux to the settings, use #56 silver solder to re-attach the clasp, pickle, remove any remaining anti-flux with an ultrasonic cleaner, re-oxidize and gently refinish the piece 90% with brushes and polishing compounds, reset the stones, and finish buff.
The other possibility is to remove a few of the stones, laser weld, and reset.
Hard to see what it happening with the pin axis, but if the little cross piece that holds the pin in the axis joint is missing, this is something a competent silversmith or jeweler should be able to fix without applying heat to the pin or removing the stones.
If it’s not an easy fix call Perry Null? They fixed a cuff of mine for a really reasonable price. And I had been told from some other place out west that would be a too difficult and expensive fix, and wasn’t worth it.
@mmrogers , I think it’s simply that the little cross piece that holds the pin in the axis joint is missing. At least, that’s what it looks like – and that’s my fervent hope! I’ll take it in and see if that’s the case. If so, then I’ll ask for it to be fixed. Otherwise, I’ll leave it be, as I certainly don’t want any damage to the structure or the stones.
@Ziacat , how I wish Perry Null were located on my side of our border! I’m leery of shipping the brooch outside Canada for repair because the logistics can get awfully complicated – not to mention I would likely end up being re-dinged for duties and taxes upon its return But I also know Perry Null is absolutely reliable and helpful! I’ll definitely bear this in mind as a possible solution. Maybe if I have another piece or two that could keep this one company…!
The brooch is even prettier in real life, I think — it was hard to do it much justice in the photos. And @Ziacat , you have a very keen eye. Yes, there’s some colour change going on, with a few stones either a slightly darker/deeper blue or starting to shift toward green. I can hardly wait to see how it develops!
I know this shape is called “bow”, but I was wondering, is it correct to call it a cluster piece? Or would it have to be larger (rounder?) for that? Still trying to build my ‘quoise vocabulary…