Is this an authentic Navajo belt?

Hi! I found this gorgeous belt at Goodwill. The only markings are on the buckle, JE sterling. I don’t know if the conchos are also silver or if the stones are turquoise. I would love any information about it.

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Hello and welcome to the forum, @Adina. What a score from Goodwill! Congratulations!

Without indisputable provenance, it’s impossible to say with certainty that your belt is Navajo made. Nevertheless, it would (at least) be referred to as a Third Phase concho belt crafted in the Navajo style. The use of stones, butterfly spacers, and overall execution support this.

Hallmarks signifying the artist’s initials are fairly common and can be tough to track down. At least two or three known example of a particular artist’s work is preferred to obtain a fingerprint of their design or some kind of unique aesthetic, in order to say with any degree of certainty that another piece bearing a somewhat generic hallmark was indeed crafted by them.

It’s really common for buckles to be removed and/or swapped out from the concho belts that they were crafted for. The buckle on your belt appears to have remained where it belongs, in my opinion. The stones (looks like Kingman, to me) appear to match fairly well in color, size, cut and finish on the buckle, and the remaining stones don’t appear far off except for variations in height. The fact that the smooth bezels they’re set in on the conchos, spacers, and buckle are similar in execution and height shore this up, as well.

The stamp work looks to have been performed by hand, as there are a number of imperfections in placement and depth. The transfer present on the back of the buckle is telling, (marks left from the surface that the buckle was worked against) and there are plenty of tool marks on the reverse of the four repoussé elements of the buckle to support it being hand worked.

The two copper straps soldered to the reverse of the conchos to retain them to the leather is generally accepted as a later trait.

The overall design and execution could place this anywhere from the 60’s through the 80’s or 90’s.

Here is a somewhat similar belt that sold in February. This one is hallmarked with “BY” and “STERLING”.

The seller of that belt provided this bit of info…

I have been the only owner of this Concho belt purchased in Gallup New Mexico circa 1990. It has a beautiful buckle and crusted with natural turquoise. There are 21 turquoise stones. The buckle is big but not too big. It is 3" x 2 1/2”. The bia Conchos are 2” x 2" and a half oval. The small Conchos are 2" x 1" oblong. Each one comes with a unique Bezold stone. This is trulv one of a kind piece. Purchased off the reservation and only worn once. The leather probablv needs to be Fit to your size but it’s easy to have done. It’s exquisite.

If what they shared is true, it could provide you with some insight into evaluating your belt.

This is all simply my opinion and I am no expert so please take my thoughts with a grain of salt. There are a number of other very knowledgeable members that will hopwfully chime in. But if you’re interested in learning, and unless you already have, it may behoove you to check out one of our greatest threads created by @TAH specifically for discussing this wonderful form of adornment. There is a ton of great information to soak up. :+1:

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Welcome Adina. That’s a great looking belt in what appears to be an easy-to-wear size. Looks like the conchos will slip right through belt loops. I love the buckle and its stamp work.

Amazing you found it at Goodwill. I think I’ll run over to our store and check out all of their concho belts. :laughing:

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Thank you! I still can’t believe I found it. The store was pretty crowded and it was just hanging there, out in the open for all to see. I grabbed to so fast! I have to clean it up but even tarnished it’s so beautiful @TAH

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@Ravenscry Thank you so much for all of your insight and information!!! I am so grateful!!!

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Of course, it’s completely up to you, but personally, I wouldn’t clean it at all. The patina is perfect and highlights the stamp work nicely. It will naturally polish as you wear it, so perhaps give it some time and see if it settles into your liking. Congrats again! :+1:

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right place at the right time with a good eye!

nothing conclusive on the maker

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Glad to partake, @Adina. :slightly_smiling_face:

I completely agree with @TAH on cleaning/polishing it. As he mentions, it is obviously entirely personal preference, but patina is earned, and the natural polish you’ll achieve through wear is tough to beat and downright beautiful, in my opinion.:+1:

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I’m definitely leaving it as is

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Thank you so much!!!

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Here’s another belt by a different artist with conchos and spacers similar to yours. Thought you might enjoy seeing it.

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WOW This is gorgeous.

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